If you’re standing in a cold shower in Sacramento right now, wondering what the heck happened to your hot water…
I’ve got you.

As a plumber, I’ve seen just about every water heater failure there is — from simple resets to total breakdowns.
And no, not every issue means you need to replace the whole unit.

Let me walk you through how I troubleshoot heaters on the job — so you know what’s going on, and what’s worth fixing.

Figure Out the Type of Heater You Have

Before anything else, ask:

• Is it gas or electric?
• Tank-style or tankless?

Why it matters:
The steps, parts, and failure points are completely different.
Let’s break them down separately.

If You Have an Electric Tank Water Heater

Start here:

1. Check the circuit breaker
   → It may have tripped. Flip it off and back on.
2. Check the reset button
   → There’s a high-limit switch under the upper panel. If it’s tripped, push it back in.
3. Still no hot water?
   → Probably a failed heating element or thermostat.
   Those are replaceable — usually under $300 with labor.

If your heater is 10+ years old, and the tank itself is rusty or leaking — that’s a bigger issue.

If You Have a Gas Water Heater

1. Look at the pilot light
   → If it’s out, try relighting (follow safety instructions — gas is no joke).
2. Pilot won’t stay lit?
   → Could be a bad thermocouple or gas control valve. These are common, and fixable.
3. Smell gas?
   → Shut it down and call someone immediately. That’s not DIY territory.
4. Hearing odd popping or rumbling?
   → Likely sediment buildup at the bottom of the tank.
   A full flush might solve it.

If You Have a Tankless Unit

1. Check the display
   → Any error code? Write it down. They’re surprisingly specific.
2. Low flow warning?
   → Check inlet filters or screens. Debris blocks flow sensors.
3. Fluctuating water temp?
   → Could be mineral buildup, dirty flame sensor, or flow sensor failure.

I always start by flushing the system and cleaning the filters. 50% of issues vanish after that.

Still Have a Leak or Strange Behavior?

Here’s what I always say:

• Small drip at a valve? → Often easy to tighten or replace
• Water leaking from the base of the tank? → Bad news. That usually means internal failure
• Rusty water? → Could be anode rod issue or tank corrosion
• High-pitched whining or screeching? → Check the pressure relief valve or a partially closed shut-off

When to DIY — and When to Call

Try it yourself if:

• You’re confident with basic tools
• You’ve found a clear cause (breaker, pilot, reset switch)
• No gas smell, no water leaking, no flashing red lights

Call a pro if:

• You’re not sure what the issue is
• There’s visible rust, water, or gas odor
• You tried restarting and nothing changed
• Your unit is older than 8–10 years

What We Do at Golden Valley Plumbing

When we come out for a “no hot water” call, we:

• Ask you a few smart questions first
• Show up with all the right parts and tools
• Diagnose the problem on-site
• Tell you if it’s fixable — or if replacement makes more sense
• Always explain what we’re doing before charging for anything

Need your heater checked? Golden Valley Plumbing is here — no games, no pressure, just answers.

Final Word

Not all hot water problems mean disaster.
But the longer you wait, the more expensive it usually gets.

So if you’re not sure what’s going on — give us a call.
We’ll tell you exactly what it is, how bad it is, and whether it’s worth fixing.